Peter Swain

Palhiero on Madeira

When fortunes are being lost daily, it’s comforting to play golf at a family estate with history. The Blandys only opened their course at Palheiro in 1993, but have been producing their celebrated Madeira wine on the island for 200 years.

Over-consumption of the sweet amber liquid the previous night delays my start on the course and necessitates dark glasses. My host and playing partner is Jonathan Fletcher, Blandy family maestro, club director and four-handicapper. No pressure then.

Bypassing the fourballs on one and two, Jonathan drives straight to the stroke index 4, 178-yard third. Unkind. Blasting the ball into the low winter sun, I can see nothing. But the sound of my ball ricocheting off Monterey pines tells its own doleful story.

 

Overlooking the Atlantic, the spectacular and challenging 6,656-yard Palheiro course runs through hills covered by trees nurtured by generations of Blandys. During my round, wayward driving gives me the opportunity to examine the arboreal exotica more closely than course designer Cabell Robinson probably intended.

The short dogleg fourth is ideal for the Viagra of golf - my 21° recovery club gets the ball up quickly and keeps it in the air longer. Result.

With five par 3s and five 5s, the elevated tees, generous fairways and receptive greens are fun. The 119 bunkers are not. My playing partner’s natural draw is a distinct advantage – maybe he adapted the course to suit his game?

Old-school types like me appreciate the persimmon tree behind the sixth tee. The game was clearly in better shape when woods, hand-crafted from this very species, looked and sounded like woods instead of rusty graphite kettles. R&A take note.

Madeira is renowned for its Levada promenades. Even without the clubs, though, this must be the best walk on the island. Our buggy is restricted to the new path, but the accuracy of my play means I spend more time walking than sitting anyway. The scenery is stunning.

Forswearing a glass of my host’s vintage beverage at the splendid halfway house, I head for the 10th with unwarranted confidence. There is a golden patch in any round, after I’ve warmed up but before my sacroiliac starts creaking, when I can almost play golf. It has arrived.

Every course has its signature hole - Palheiro’s is the par-4 14th. In the heart of the arboretum, with the ocean behind the green, the bucolic innocence of hole belies its danger. A ravine gobbles up shorter drives. Artistry and length are required to hit and stay on an undulating well-bunkered green. A five is the highlight of my day.

It’s all in the set-up. Shortish rough and holding fringes around the greens make life so much easier. From the Tiger tees, with a bit of wind, and 11 on the stimpmeter, this course could be brutal, but it’s 18 holes you would never tire of.

The hospitality is on a par with the golf. The superb cooking, together with the view from the clubhouse terrace of Funchal and the Atlantic 500 feet below, makes this a favourite spot even for those who can’t tell a sand wedge from a sandwich.

Owners at Palheiro’s own ritzy hillside development are the heart of the growing club membership. Lucky them.

Next time, Jonathan promises to round off the day on the Estate’s big game fishing boat. He’s caught 700-pound marlin a mile offshore. I can’t wait.